Elevate Your Ford Ranger’s Off-Road Game with Our Evolution 3D Front Bumper
The Ford Ranger is renowned for its exceptional performance on the trails, but with the addition of our Evolution 3D Front Bumper, it’s not just built tough—it becomes an absolute showstopper. Our front bumper is designed to provide unparalleled protection while giving your Ranger a bold, aggressive look that will turn heads and command attention on any terrain.
Why the Evolution 3D Front Bumper Stands Out
Our Evolution 3D Front Bumper is more than just a stylish upgrade; it’s engineered for maximum durability and performance. Crafted to handle the most challenging off-road conditions, this bumper ensures your Ranger is protected from impacts and hazards while you conquer rugged landscapes. Its striking design not only enhances your vehicle’s toughness but also amplifies its visual appeal, making a powerful statement wherever you drive.
Transform Your 4×4 Adventure
Are you ready to take your off-road adventures to the next level? Our Evolution 3D Front Bumper offers the perfect blend of style and strength, transforming your Ford Ranger into a head-turning adventure machine. Whether you’re tackling steep inclines, rocky paths, or muddy trails, this bumper ensures you do so with confidence and flair.
Get in Touch
Ready to give your Ford Ranger the ultimate upgrade? Contact us today at (010) 595 0229 to learn more about our premium off-road accessories and how we can help you achieve the perfect balance of rugged durability and eye-catching style. Let us help you enhance your 4×4 experience and make a statement on every adventure.
Mitsubishi Triton Evolution 3D Front Bumper
The Mitsubishi Triton is already a powerhouse on the road, but when you equip it with our Evolution 3D Front Bumper, it becomes an unstoppable force in off-road adventures. Designed with rugged durability in mind, this bumper is engineered to withstand the toughest terrains and harshest conditions, while also enhancing the Triton’s commanding presence.
Why Choose the Evolution 3D Front Bumper?
Our Evolution 3D Front Bumper isn’t just about looks—although it certainly makes a bold statement. It’s meticulously crafted to offer superior protection and performance. Whether you’re navigating rocky trails, muddy paths, or sandy dunes, this bumper provides the strength and resilience you need to tackle any challenge. Its innovative design also ensures a perfect fit, seamlessly integrating with your Triton’s aesthetic while boosting its off-road capabilities.
Upgrade Your 4×4 Experience
Are you ready to elevate your off-road experience? Upgrading to our Evolution 3D Front Bumper is a smart investment for any serious adventurer. Our bumper not only enhances your vehicle’s protection but also adds a distinctive touch of style that will turn heads wherever you go.
Get in Touch with Us
Interested in transforming your Mitsubishi Triton with our premium off-road accessories? Don’t hesitate to reach out to us today. Call us at (010) 595 0229 to learn more about how our Evolution 3D Front Bumper can revolutionize your 4×4 adventure and discover other top-notch accessories that complement your vehicle perfectly.
Elevate your Triton’s performance and style with the Evolution 3D Front Bumper—where toughness meets elegance.
How many times has this happened to you: you are driving at night, and the next moment you are confronted by an animal either standing in, or busy walking onto the road which you are traveling on. This is exactly what has happened to one of our clients, Mr. André Steenkamp. On his way, a calf was walking onto the road as he was coming around the bend. The result was unfortunately unavoidable, as the vehicle struck the calf at 120km/h. Here follows the video of the incident:
What normally should’ve been an incident which would’ve seen Mr. Steenkamp’s vehicle being written off, wasn’t the case as the Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D bumper fitted to his Toyota Prado, deflected most of the impact away from the radiator and other sensitive components housed within the engine compartment. This meant that Mr. Steenkamp could drive back home without any hassle and have his Prado repaired that following week. In the photos below you can see the aftermath of the accident.
The Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D bumper comes in 3 separate pieces which
meant that only the damaged parts needed to be replaced, not the full bumper.
In this case only the left side section needed to be replaced.
In an article written by the Arrive Alive campaign, it is noted that
there is no fool-proof way to keep animals away from the roads. Hoofed mammals
that stand high on their legs, such as cattle, horses and antelope such as kudu
pose the most danger to vehicle occupants. If they are hit, they can roll onto
the bonnet and into the windshield or roof, resulting in extensive damage and
serious or fatal injury. Due to their height, their eyes are above most
headlight beams.
Adding a good quality bull-bar or replacement bumper can be a great
help in minimising the impact or damage caused to your vehicle when colliding
with an animal. The Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D bumper is the perfect option for any
vehicle as all of the products are of the highest quality, have all been impact
tested, are all airbag compatible and certified, and require no cutting of any
kind to your vehicle. Before going on your next adventure, make sure that you
contact us for all of your 4×4 accessory needs.
When buying a bumper for your 4×4 vehicle, there are two elements that are incredibly important to a potential customer. The first is the design of the bumper, and the second (and equally important) is the quality of the bumper.
Design Design in general is a personal preference and what appeals to one person might not necessarily appeal to another. The shape, the colour, and the profile of a bumper might add to the overall look of the vehicle, but it mostly still boils down to personal preference of the customer as to which looks better.
Quality However, when it comes to the quality of the product, people are far more objective, and the facts need to speak for themselves. Bumpers are required to protect the occupants of the vehicle and the vehicle itself, to ensure that all of the vehicle’s safety mechanisms (like the airbags and sensors) are unhindered, and to also have no rattles when driving over and through rough terrain.
The material used for the bumper’s construction, the manufacturing process, the research and development, and the testing of the product are all vitally important to ensure that a product of exceptional quality is delivered.
Modular Bumpers versus Welded Bumpers During an article published in the June 2017 edition of SA 4×4, it was stated that welded bumpers are generally less likely to rattle loose than modular ones, simply because they have fewer components. Although some people may believe that this is true, we have found the contrary to be a better reflection of the truth.
Rhino 4×4 makes use of a patented three-piece design and mounting system which allows the bumper to have more “flex” than a one-piece welded bumper. The result of this is that a modular bumper therefore is far less likely to rattle than a one-piece bumper, since a one-piece bumper has far less flex than a modular one.
Our personal experience further supports this belief. Rhino 4×4 has to date not had one warranty claim relating to a bumper which has rattled loose or failed during very rocky or corrugated terrain. In fact, this has become a point of differentiation for the Rhino 4×4 brand compared to some of its competitors over the last few years.
Testing With close to 30 years’ experience in design and manufacturing for both the racing and leisure industries, the Rhino 4×4 designs are thoroughly tested with a lot of research and development going into them before they are released into the market. It takes close to a year of development and testing before the end product is launched to the consumer.
All Rhino 4×4 products sold in South Africa go through a strict, dynamic crash testing process in Australia to ensure that our products will allow the airbag to fire at the precise pulse rate as tested with the OE bumper crash tests. All of the Rhino 4×4 bumpers are therefore airbag tested and certified. It is important to note that many manufacturers claim that their replacement bumpers are “airbag compatible”, but a replacement bumper can only be deemed compatible if it has been tested and certified.
Take a look at how one of the Rhino 4×4 tests is conducted.
Do Your Homework The next time that you are in the market to buy a bumper for your 4×4, take a little bit of time to do the necessary homework, and find out about the products which you are considering fitting to your vehicle. Speak to other people who have had replacement bumpers fitted to their vehicles and get them to share their personal experiences relating to those bumpers.
At the end of the day, always make sure that your new bumper answers the following three questions: Is it strong enough to protect you and your vehicle? Will it allow your airbags and sensors to operate as normal? Does it have enough flex and buffering to prevent noise or damage when driving through any rough terrain?
It has been about a year since we decided to pull the plug on living in South Africa. As a family we decided it would be best to leave everything behind as we knew it, and move to Botswana to purse a life of nature and the outdoors.
Botswana, like any other country in Africa, has its challenges ,but makes up for it in spectacular ways. Beggars in the streets of Cape Town were now replaced by donkeys and goats, and amazing game reserves were now at our fingertips!
We’ve managed to check out some pretty awesome places since we’ve been here. We’ve also watched the season turn from crazy amounts of rain, to a bone dry climate that’s turned mud into dust. Gaborone being the capital city is situated very close to the South African border, but also sits relatively close to some amazing game reserves like Khutse, and the infamous Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
Our first outing as a family took us three hours north of Gaborone, to Khama Rhino Sanctuary. KRS was established in 1989 in order to give our Rhinos a safe place to breed and live under the watchful eye of the Botswana defence force. During the summer months the rain comes and fills the beautiful pans with water. The whole park turn into a bright green oasis for all sort of animals like, Rhino, Giraffe, Zebra, Kudu, and many more! We loved it, parked off on the edge of Malema’s Pan sipping on a cold gin and tonic as the kids sleep in the back seat!
We recently took the opportunity to head to Northern Botswana as schools were closing which gave us the freedom to go!
We started by doing the CKGR eastern cutline. This was certainly not for the faint hearted, or inexperienced. The day awaited us with 300km of deep sand and extreme concentration. To do this you must be absolutely and completely self sufficient, as you will not see another human for a good 6hours! We arrived at the end of the cutline by Matswere Gate (CKGR) and turned into Rakops to regroup and top up on fuel! Our next step was to find the Boteti River ferry in order to cross the river into the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. The ferry was a very cool experience as it was hand drawn and not powered by motors. The only other place i’ve seen something like this was in Malgas in South Africa, before the hand drawn ferry was replaced by a big modern one.
As soon as we crossed into the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, we came across massive herds of zebras, maybe 100 at a time, if not more. Along the river bed were herds of elephants grazing in the trees. A truly spectacular sight.
We set up camp at Khumaga which was absolutely spotless and very well run!
The following morning we packed up early to make a quick coffee and feed the kids before driving off into the sunrise. We decided to take a track along the Boteti River. It was absolutely stunning and we were greeted by hippos and many many zebras. Luckily for them no crocs in sight. We decided to keep heading North and exited Makgadikgadi Pans National Park via Phuduhudu gate and into the Nxai Pan National Park. This continued for the next 10 days as we adventured through Botswana getting as far as Maun! If you’d like to follow our adventures, please give us a subscribe on Youtube at Adventures Overland 4×4. We also run a popular instagram page (@Adventure_overland_4x4) where you can check out all of our awesome content, as we base ourselves in Botswana, and live life to the beat of our own drum!
Alex Rochard
The Spirit Of Adventure
There is something special about adventure travel off the beaten track in Africa. It’s an experience that can’t be explained, but only experienced. That’s why we do what we do. It all started with our first overland trip to Namibia’s southern and central parts about 20 years ago. Cristel and I had just gotten married in December 2003, and the following April, we set off on a journey that would change our lives in many ways. I always say that the problem with overlanding is that once you’ve been bitten by the bug, there’s no going back. You just want more.
Our first overland vehicle was a Toyota Hilux single cab 2.7L petrol 4×4. I designed, built, and installed most of the modifications and accessories myself. Back then, I was an electrician by trade and had two main reasons for doing this. First, I’m technically minded and I enjoy working with my hands. Second, we didn’t have the financial means to just drive into a 4×4 accessories workshop and get the Hilux kitted out with everything including the kitchen sink.
This experience taught us that you don’t need all the bells and whistles to go on your first overland adventure. You just need a good vehicle, a sense of adventure, and a willingness to get your hands dirty. Over the years, we’ve been on many more overland trips, and we’ve seen some amazing things. We’ve met incredible people, experienced different cultures, and learned a lot about ourselves.
One of the main directional changes in our life was when God opened the door to establish Rhino 4×4 into the South African market 10 years ago when we started Rhino 4×4 Africa in 2013. Many overland trips later, 30 years globally and 10 years in Africa, Rhino 4×4 is driven by the passion for overlanding and adventure and the experience that we have gained through many overland trips in the last 20 years. We have travelled to the following overland destinations and managed to explore and experience these wonderful places and the people of Botswana, Mozambique, Angola, Namibia, and Zimbabwe. It was time to explore more of this amazing continent we get to call home.
I have been dreaming of going to the Serengeti for many years. It has always been one of my bucket list trips and a top overland destination that many only dream about. The overland trip that when you think about it, you get butterflies in your stomach. Our initial plan was to go in December 2020, but our hopes and dreams were shattered when the COVID-19 pandemic hit the world.
We decided to keep on researching, planning, and saving with the hope that as soon as things change, we can get excited again and one day get to experience Tanzania, the Ngorongoro Crater, and the Serengeti.
That time is finally here! I would like to take you on our Tanzania overland adventure. But before we start, we need to get our final planning and preparation done.
Route Planning
After many Saturday morning meetings followed by a good South African braai, we finally decided on our route to Tanzania. We wanted to spend as much time in Tanzania as possible, so we opted to drive the most direct route and not spend time in any countries or places on the way that we have visited before or that we could easily visit from South Africa in the future.
We started by doing research on the internet, the 4×4 community forum, and trip reports and blogs by other overlanders. We also talked to some tour operators that we know and some customers who have done the Serengeti in the past.
We started by making a list of places that all the members of our group wanted to visit to see what would be feasible. This gave us a few different route options.
With our research complete, we soon realized that Tanzania is a country that has so much more to offer than just the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. We decided to add a visit to Kasanka National Park and the Bat Migration, which will be taking place while we are travelling through Zambia on our way to Tanzania.
Things are now beginning to fall into place, and we are super excited!
Here is a tentative list of the places we were planning to visit (in no particular order):
– Serengeti National Park (6 days)
– Ngorongoro Crater (2 days)
– Lake Victoria
– Lake Tanganyika
– Katavi National Park (2 days)
– Ruaha National Park (2 days)
– Bat Migration in Kasanka National Park, Zambia
– Kapishya Hot Springs, Zambia
– Mount Kilimanjaro
– Tarangire National Park (2 days)
– Zanzibar (3 days)
– Gombe National Park in Kigoma for the chimpanzees (optional)
Now that we have a basic outline of our trip, it’s time to start planning the details. We’ll be using Tracks for Africa and other resources to determine our route and the kilometres we can cover each day. We know that Africa is not like driving from Cape Town to Johannesburg, where you can easily cover 1200 kilometres in a day. Travel times and distances can vary greatly, and sometimes 300 kilometres can take you a full day. We’ll also need to factor in traffic, road conditions, and the condition of our vehicles.
We realize that we will be spending a lot of time in the car, but that is no problem for us. Overlanding is all about the journey, not just the destination. We had to take into consideration our businesses and kids’ schooling, so we only have 42 days for this trip. This will be our longest and furthest trip yet, but we’re excited about the adventure!
Below is the Tracks for Africa Map outline of our planned route (total distance ± 11,000km):
Budget
After finalising our route, we had to plan and see if we would actually be able to do everything we wanted to due to time and money constraints.
All of the countries we planned to visit use US Dollars for international visitors, except for Botswana. This meant that budgeting was a huge factor in our trip. When we started planning, the rand-dollar exchange rate was under R15 to the dollar, but by the time we were ready to finalize our budget, it had shot up to over R18.50 to the dollar.
We also got the Tanzanian National Park Tariffs and soon realized that they had changed their daily park vehicle fees in 2018. The new fees are $150 per day for vehicles that weigh over 2001 kilograms. Unfortunately, my Hilux weighs 2029 kilograms and the Ranger weighs 2058 kilograms. This means that we will have to pay an extra $110 per day just on vehicle fees, which we had not originally budgeted for. This is a significant increase, especially considering that we have planned 14 days in Tanzanian national parks. The total difference for vehicle fees alone is $1540.
In addition to the vehicle fees, we will also have to pay park fees and camping fees. Here is a basic breakdown of the daily fees in the Serengeti:
– Vehicle fees: $150 per day
– Park/Conservation fees per adult: $60 per day
– Park/Conservation fees per child (ages 5-15): $20 per day
– Special campsite fees per adult: $50 per day
– Special campsite fees per child (ages 5-15): $10 per day
So, for a family of four in one vehicle, it will cost us a whopping $430 per day to camp under a tree in the Serengeti. There are no facilities like showers or toilets at these “Special campsites,” but it does mean that we will be totally on our own and private in a scenic and unfenced campsite in the middle of the Serengeti. Hopefully, it will be worth the price tag!
Public shared campsites with toilets and cold showers are a bit cheaper, with fees of $30 for adults and $5 for children.
Some of the other national parks are slightly cheaper with conservation fees and camping fees, but the vehicle fees are always $150 per day. We also realised that the Ngorongoro Crater has an additional $250 crater access fee on top of the $150 vehicle fee. And to top it all off, all these costs are exclusive of the 18% VAT.
One of the biggest budget items is diesel. There’s no way around it, we need to fuel our vehicles to get around Tanzania. We are planning to drive 11,000 kilometres, which at an average of 6-7 kilometres per litre will cost us R45,000 at R25 per litre.
We soon realised that this is not going to be a cheap exercise. We have been saving for five years for this trip, and there is no turning back now. This will also be the last year that we will be able to go before our children outgrow the “5-15 year” age bracket. If we don’t go now, this trip will soon be way beyond what we will be able to afford. This is a once-in-a-lifetime trip that we have been dreaming about for years. It is now or never!
Travel Companions
One of the most important things to consider when planning an overlanding trip is the people you go with. As we have learned over the past 20 years, the people you travel with can make or break a trip.
We have found that people who are friends with you for years and who you easily socialize with during a braai may not always be the best travel companions. When things go wrong on an overlanding trip, you soon realize that some people are not that great to travel with. And things will go wrong! Vehicles will break down, you will get lost, and you will encounter unexpected challenges. You need travel companions who can handle pressure, stick together, and make a plan under these circumstances. You need friends who can think out of the box and who won’t lose their cool, even when things are tough.
We are fortunate to have such friends in Anton and Melody. We met them as clients when they were looking to get their vehicle set up for overlanding. One day, while Anton was at our shop, he mentioned that they were going on an overlanding trip to Angola in December with his broker. I ended up inviting myself on this trip, and the rest is history. We soon became best of friends and overlanding partners.
Anton has a towing business and specialises in difficult recoveries as well as the repatriation of vehicles from neighbouring countries. He is the calmest person under pressure that I know, even in the most stressful situations. We have been on many overlanding trips together since 2016, and we wouldn’t want to do it with anyone else.
We are Ewert and Cristel, our kids Ewert Jr (15) and Miané (13) in the Hilux, with Anton and Melody in the Ranger.
From left to right: Ewert, Cristel, Miané, Melody, Anton, Ewert Jr.
The Vehicles And Accessories
As fate would have it, our vehicles are quite controversial in the 4×4 industry and community. There have been many discussions at braais or around the fire about who’s 4×4 is the best: Toyota or Ford.
I have had the privilege of owning both a Toyota Hilux and a Ford Ranger, and to me, the best 4×4 is the one that you prefer and the one that gets you to your next overland destination.
My current vehicle is a 2021 Toyota Hilux Legend 2.8 4×4 Auto. I previously owned a Ford Ranger 3.2 and the Ford Ranger Raptor 2L. Anton has a 2019 Ford Ranger 3.2 4×4 Super Cab that is solely used for overlanding.
Both of our vehicles have been extensively kitted out by Rhino 4×4 to make our lives as easy and convenient as possible when we are in the bush.
Hilux Legend double cab 2.8 4×4 2021 model
Here are some of the modifications we have made to our Hilux to make it the perfect overlanding vehicle:
Suspension: We have upgraded the suspension with Fox 2.5 DSC suspension, Tough Dog 500Kg heavy-duty Leaf springs, and Tough Dog upper control arms. This gives us a smoother ride and more articulation when off-road. Exhaust: De Graaf free-flow exhaust system to give us a bit more power and torque. Snorkel: We have installed a snorkel to allow for cooler and cleaner airflow and to allow our Hilux to wade through deeper water. Wheels and tires: 17-inch Dirty Life wheels with 285/70/17 BFG All-terrain tires. Good old faithful ………Not great on a wet road but has never let me down. Bumpers: Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D front and rear bumpers. These bumpers are strong and durable, and they provide protection for our Hilux in the event of a collision, better approach and departure angles, jack and recovery points and the front bumper is winch compatible. Winch: Rhino 4×4 12000 LBS winch. This winch is powerful enough to get us out of any sticky situation. Rock sliders: Rhino 4×4 rock sliders. These rock sliders protect our Hilux from damage when off-road and provides Hi-Lift jacking points Underbody protection: Rhino 4×4 full underbody protection. This protection shields our Hilux from rocks and other debris when off-road. Roof rack: Trailmax roofrack system. This roofrack provides us with extra storage space for our gear and the mounting of our rooftop tent. Light bars: Rhino 4×4 HD series 20” combat LED lightbars on the front bumpers of our Hilux, and a Rhino 4×4 HD series 32” combat LED lightbar on the roofracks. These lightbars provide us with excellent visibility when driving at night or in low-light conditions.
Canopy: RSI Evo Smartcanopy with kitchen unit and roof mount table. Rooftop tents: We have a Quickpitch rooftop tent and an Eezi Awn 1.2m rooftop tent. These tents provide us with comfortable sleeping accommodations when we are camping and allows us to leave our bedding in the tents. Shower: Quickpitch en Suit Shower cubical mounted to the tent on our Hilux. This shower allows us to quickly freshen up after a long day of exploring. Awning: Alu Cab 270-degree shadow awning mounted to the tent on our Hilux. This awning provides us with additional shade and shelter for those sunny or rainy days. Charging system: Redarc 40A DC to DC smart charging system with Optima AGM Battery, various power/USB points and internal lighting. This charging system allows us to charge our devices and run our equipment even when we are off the grid. Solar panel: 160w solar panel mounted on the tent on our Hilux. This solar panel provides us with a source of renewable energy when we are off grid. Compressor: ARB 160l compressor with an air tank. This compressor allows us to inflate our tires and use air tools when needed. Drawer system: DECKED drawer storage system in the back of our Hilux. This storage system provides us with an easy and organized place to store our gear. Fridge/freezer: 60L National Luna Dual Fridge Freezer on a drop-down fridge slide in the back of our Hilux. This fridge/freezer allows us to keep our food and drinks cold when we are camping. Fridge: 16L Engel fridge mounted on the back seat of our Hilux. This fridge allows us to keep our drinks cold when we are camping. Water tank: 70l stainless steel built-in water tank with Quickpitch Gas geyser mounted and plumbed into a Variable Speed water pump on our Hilux. This water tank provides us with fresh water when we are camping. Fuel tank: 80L long-range fuel tank on our Hilux. This fuel tank allows us to travel further without having to refuel. Jack: High Lift Jack mounted to the side of the Quickpitch Rooftent on our Hilux. This jack allows us to change a tire or recover our vehicle in sand or mud. Work lights: 3x Lightforce work lights on wireless remote on our Hilux. These work lights provide us with extra light when we are working on our vehicles or camping in unfenced places.
Ford Ranger 3.2 4×4 Super cab 2019 model
Here are some of the modifications we have made to the Ranger to get it prepared and ready for this trip:
Suspension: We have upgraded the suspension with Tough Dog Suspension with 9-stage adjustable shocks and 300Kg heavy-duty Leaf springs. This gives us a smoother ride and more articulation when off-road. Exhaust: De Graaf free-flow exhaust system to give us a bit more power and torque. Snorkel: We have installed a snorkel to provide cooler and cleaner airflow ant to allow our Ranger to wade through deeper water. Wheels and tires: 17 inch Dick Cepek wheels with 265/70/17 BFG All Terrain tires. These tires provide good traction on a variety of surfaces.
Bumpers: Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D front bumper. The bumper is strong and durable, and provides protection to our Ranger in the event of a collision, better approach angle, jack and recovery points and the bumper is winch compatible.
Winch: Rhino 4×4 12500 LBS winch. This winch is powerful enough to get us out of any sticky situation. Rock sliders: Rhino 4×4 rock sliders. These rock sliders protect our Ranger from damage when off-road and provides Hi lift jacking points. Underbody protection: Rhino 4×4 full underbody protection. This protection shields our Ranger from rocks and other debris when off-road. Roof rack: Front Runner Roofrack. This roof rack provides us with extra storage space for our gear. Spotlights: Rhino 4×4 HD series 80W spots. These LED Spots provide us with excellent visibility when driving at night or in low-light conditions.
Canopy: RSI Smartcanopy with Kitchen unit and roof mount table. Rooftop tents: Alu Cab Gen 3 rooftop tent and a Quickpitch en Suit Shower cubical mounted on a fold-out arm on the roof rack. This tent provide us with comfortable sleeping when we are camping. Awning: Alu Cab 270-degree shadow awning mounted to the tent. This awning provides us with additional shade and shelter for those sunny and rainy days.
Charging system: National Luna 40A DC to DC smart charging system with 2x 100AH Discover AGM Battery’s, various power/USB points and internal lighting. This charging system allows us to charge our devices and run our equipment even when we are off the grid. Solar panel: 2x 100w Solar panels mounted on the tent. This solar panel provides us with a source of renewable energy when we are off grid. Compressor: ARB 160l compressor with an custom air tank that i made from the existing tow bar. This compressor and air tank allows us to inflate our tires and use air tools when needed. Drawer system: Big Country Outback Drawer system in the back of our Ranger. This storage system provides us with an easy and organized place to store our gear. We also have a custom made storage rack in the extended cab for our clothing ,duvet’s and pillows and space for our drone and other gear. Fridge/freezer: 60l National Luna Dual Fridge Freezer on a Alu Cab tilt fridge slide. This fridge/freezer allows us to keep our food and drinks cold when we are camping.
Fridge: 16L Engel fridge mounted between the two front seats of the Ranger. This fridge allows us to keep our drinks cold when we are camping.
Water tanks: 40l stainless built-in Water tank with Quickpitch Gas geyser mounted and plumbed into another 50l water tank connected to a Variable Speed water pump.Fuel tank: 54L long-range fuel tank. This fuel tank allows us to travel further without having to refuel. Additional fuel tank: 50l additional fuel tank with a filler neck and an electrical pump feeding into the long-range tank. This additional fuel tank allows us to travel even further without having to refuel. High Lift Jack: High Lift Jack mounted to the roofrack. This jack allows us to change a tire or recover our Ranger. Maxtrax: Mounted to the roofrack. These Maxtrax allow us to recover in tricky mud or sand.
Lightforce work lights: 3x Lightforce work lights on wireless remote on our Ranger. These work lights provide us with extra light when we are working on our vehicles or camping in unfenced wild areas.
Gas bottles: 2x Gas bottles mounted to the canopy. These gas bottles provide us with fuel for our stove and gas geyser when we are camping. 2000W Pure Sign wave Inverter: We have a 2000W Pure Sign wave Inverter that allows us to run our Lap tops, hair dryers and charge our cameras and other devices when we are off the grid.
Packing List
Every successful trip has a very detailed packing list to ensure that the essentials are going with and are not left behind. Here is the packing list template which we normally use when going on an overlanding adventure. You can download your own copy here.
That’s all the preparation done! With the route properly mapped out, the budget set, the travel companions onboard, and the vehicles equipped, we’re now ready to embark on our Tanzania Serengeti adventure! Join us in our next article for the first leg of our journey to Tanzania.
Day 1: JHB To Woodlands Stop-over Outside Francistown (707Km)
We can hardly believe that the time has finally arrived to embark on our journey. Excitement fills the air, and adventure awaits us. We rendezvous with Anton and Melody at our shop in Randburg. Our vehicles are fully loaded, and we are eager to hit the road. After years of dreaming and months of preparation, the moment has arrived.
At 10:30, we pick up our son from school right after he completes his last exam, and we make our way towards the Martins Drift border post. Our destination for the night is Woodlands Stopover, just outside of Francistown. It’s going to be a long day, and we anticipate arriving at Woodlands after nightfall. Melody has thoughtfully pre-cooked a delicious beef curry, and we make a quick stop to grab some fresh white bread.
Tonight’s menu features “Bunny Chow” Durban-style. We cross the border relatively swiftly and continue our journey towards Francistown. Finally, around 19:30, we arrive at Woodlands, and to our surprise, the evening air is quite chilly. We purchase some firewood at the reception, and while we set up our camp, Melody warms up the curry. We enjoy an incredible dinner around our very first campfire of the trip, followed by refreshing warm showers before retiring to bed.
Day 2: Woodlands to Peregrines Bush Camp Livingstone (571Km)
After enjoying some coffee and rusks, we resumed our journey towards Nata and Kasane. As we made our way to Nata, we regrettably missed one of the speed limit signs cleverly hidden behind a tree, and we were pulled over for speeding. Following a brief negotiation, we paid the reduced fine and continued on our way, still wearing smiles on our faces. We hope that this will be the first and last time such an incident occurs.
Today, we are facing the dreaded Kazungula border crossing. We filled up with diesel in Kasane and headed for the border post. The last time we crossed this border was back in 2006 when we had to rely on a ferry. As we drive across the bridge spanning the Zambezi River, I can’t help but recall the absolute nightmare we endured during our last vehicle entry into Zambia – chaos, corruption, and utter disorganization. Africa is not for the faint-hearted. It was an incredibly stressful experience, to say the least.
However, we hold out hope that things have changed. The Botswana/Zambia border has undergone a transformation into a modern shared border post. The old containers and buildings from the past have been replaced by a gleaming new structure. We navigate through all the red tape, acquire third-party insurance, and present our police clearance certificates to the authorities, all in order to secure our TIPs (temporary import permits). The vehicles undergo inspection, and we pay the required US$ bridge and toll fees, despite a delay of 3 hours due to a power failure and staff taking their lunch breaks.
We arrive at Peregrines Lodge late in the afternoon and decide to have dinner at the restaurant, which is perched on the edge of a beautiful kloof overlooking the Zambezi River below. We enjoy a somewhat pricey meal as we watch the sun set in the distance. Afterward, we drive to our campsite and set up our campsite in the darkness. Despite our best efforts to get the paraffin showers working, we eventually give up and opt for an early bedtime.
Day 3: Peregrines Bush Camp to Fringilla Farm (just outside Lusaka) (554Km)
We woke up early after a restless night’s sleep, disturbed by the sounds of someone moving about our campsite. It wasn’t until morning that we realized we had an unexpected ‘security guard’ who had been patrolling our camp throughout the night.
No one had informed us about this arrangement, but we had to get going. At 8 am, we left and made a quick stop in Livingston to pick up SIM cards from Airtel before continuing our journey toward Lusaka.
The road ahead was congested with heavy traffic, mostly consisting of large trucks carrying goods. We navigated through Lusaka’s CBD traffic in the late afternoon, and fortunately, it being a Sunday, it wasn’t too chaotic until we reached just outside the city. There, we found ourselves in a seemingly endless line of bumper-to-bumper trucks – we later learned this was the notorious 10-mile truck queue.
Desperate to make progress, we followed smaller vehicles that ventured off the road, weaving between local shops and puddles of mud and water to bypass some of the queue. Our hopes were short-lived as we were eventually forced back onto the main road, with no more side routes to explore.
Upon joining the Great North Road, we encountered yet another traffic jam. Inch by inch, we crept forward, only to discover that the congestion was caused by a police checkpoint a few kilometers before Frangilla Farm. Exhausted but determined, we finally reached Fringilla Farm at 6 pm.
Our timing was perfect as we were able to purchase some of the famous Frangilla wors at their shop. We quickly set up camp and, after a long and nerve-wracking day of traffic, finally found relaxation around the fire. Our dinner featured fillet steak with garlic sauce, Frangilla wors, and braai broodjies.
Day 4: Lusaka to Kasanka National Park and the Bat migration (469Km)
We woke up early and, after packing up our camp, made a brief stop at the Fringilla butchery just before 7 am. We stocked up on some Boerewors and then hit the road. Our plan was to avoid the traffic. As we joined the Great North Road, we encountered a considerable number of trucks transporting copper from the copper belt in the north. These trucks were so heavy that they had created massive indentations in the road.
At 10 am, we discovered a lovely spot and decided to pull over for a coffee break and a quick on-the-go breakfast. Our menu included rusks, muesli, and the convenience of “Oats So Easy.”
We followed the T2 in the direction of Mpika and encountered many children and people selling giant mushrooms on the side of the road. Some of these mushrooms resembled umbrellas, and we couldn’t believe their size. According to Google, these mushrooms are the world’s largest edible mushrooms, with caps capable of growing up to 90 cm. A single one of these mushrooms can feed a family for days.
Another amazing thing we realized is that you don’t need to stock up on fresh produce, as there are fantastic organic fruits and vegetables available on every corner and in every town near the truck stops.
After navigating through hectic traffic, we finally turned off the bustling T2 and made our way towards Kasanka National Park. It felt surreal to be on a road devoid of traffic and trucks. Upon arriving at the Kasanka National Park entrance gate, the girls headed to the office to handle the administrative tasks while we found ourselves surrounded by children from the local village across the road. They were selling musuka fruit to passing trucks and tourists like us. This is the same fruit that attracts the 10 million fruit bats that migrate to this area during this time of the year.
We entered the park and drove through a beautiful forest. Although we didn’t spot any animals, the beauty of nature more than compensated for it. We followed the trail to the reception area to obtain our pre-booked camping permits. Upon arriving at our campsite, we discovered it was already occupied.
We arrived at our campsite and organized some firewood. We couldn’t set up camp just yet, as our plan was to take a drive to the forest later and wait for the sun to set, allowing us to witness the millions of bats emerging. I have to admit it sounded a bit creepy. I wasn’t sure what to expect, and the idea of seeing millions of bats seemed a bit unsettling.
Feeling a bit unsure, I decided to do a search on my overlander GPS to find a viewing point for the bats. We embarked on a drive through a muddy track until the GPS indicated that we had reached our destination. We followed wooden walkways until we reached the water, and at that point, we decided to turn around.
I searched for another point on my GPS, and we set off through deep mud and water until the tracks came to an end. I parked at a suitable spot where we could turn around in the mud. However, Anton decided to venture further, reaching a point where the tracks terminated, leaving no space to turn around.
Across a swamp on the other side, we spotted a tall steel structure with a viewing platform. We embarked on a muddy walk, losing our flip-flops (plakkies) along the way.
When we reached the structure, my initial thoughts were, “I’m not going up there.” However, after some contemplation and encouragement, we, even those of us afraid of heights, decided to brave the high structure’s stairs. We ascended until we reached the platform, and what a view it offered.
The climb up had been the easy part. The real challenge dawned on us: how were we going to get down? It turned out that the platform was part of a paid guided tour and not open to DIY enthusiasts like us. However, we were already there, and to our surprise, we received the full guided experience free of charge. We stood in anticipation, eagerly waiting for the sun to set and the bats to emerge. The experience felt almost like a scene from a Batman movie.
Suddenly, the sun vanished behind the horizon, and we witnessed a breathtaking sight – millions of bats emerging from the trees in the forest. It was a sight beyond words, a moment that defied description.
These bats migrate from the rainforests in the Congo to the forests of Kasanka to feast on the Musuka fruit, which appears after the first rainfall, and they stay here from October to December. These magnificent creatures have a wingspan of almost a meter, making them a truly awe-inspiring sight.
We descended the stairs safely and hoped that Anton’s vehicle would navigate its way out without getting stuck. With limited daylight remaining, he engaged low range reverse and fortunately managed to reach the point where I had parked and turn around. What a relief!
We retraced our path along the muddy track and arrived at our campsite just before darkness descended.
Our campsite was nestled in the forest beneath towering trees, where the sounds of birds and monkeys echoed through the tree canopies. We gathered around the fire, surrounded by fireflies dancing in the night.
For tonight’s meal, we indulged in chicken kebabs marinated in a blend of yogurt and chili.
Day 4: Kasanka to Kapisha Hot Springs (353Km)
We reluctantly departed from Kasanka via the forest track, and although it didn’t offer many wildlife sightings, it was an unforgettable experience. Our next destination would be Kapishya Hot Springs, where we planned to stay for two nights. After five days on the road, we were eagerly anticipating some relaxation before tackling our longest day of the trip when we would cross the Taduma border into Tanzania.
As we joined the T2, any peace and quiet we had enjoyed in Kasanka vanished when we encountered heavy traffic. Zambian roads proved to be treacherous. Truck drivers showed no mercy for passenger vehicles or overlanders like us. If there was a pothole on their side of the road, they would abruptly swerve into our lane at full speed. It was just chaotic.
We had numerous close calls, and we quickly realized that some of these drivers were ruthless. We had to exercise extreme caution on these hazardous roads. The road conditions were deplorable, and they were so narrow that two vehicles could barely squeeze past each other. It was no surprise that there were so many accidents on these routes. If you thought we had bad roads with a few potholes, you hadn’t seen anything yet. Some potholes were the size of swimming pools, and the roads had deteriorated to the point where there were escape routes with massive dongas that were better to traverse than the tarred roads.
After hours of white-knuckle driving, we finally reached the Kapishya signpost near a village. We stocked up on fresh produce and then turned off towards the Kapishya Hot Springs. What a day it had been! We passed through the park entrance and noticed a lake in the distance. There, we observed wildlife and cattle alongside old buildings that appeared to have some German influence.
At last, we arrived at Kapishya Hot Springs, our well-deserved oasis for the next two days. We spent our time lounging in the hot springs and pool, relishing two evenings watching beautiful sunsets beside the Mansa River. Kapisha did not disappoint; it’s a truly wonderful but remote destination. We will certainly visit it again when we return to Zambia in the future.
We cleaned and reorganized our vehicles, preparing them for the next leg of our journey. Tanzania, here we come!
Day 7: Kapishya Hot Springs to Utengule Coffee Lodge, Tanzania (402Km and 11hours)
We left Kapishya after two days of lazing around and relaxing, wishing we had more time to spend at this wonderful place. We packed up and departed early in the morning, setting off at 06:00. This would likely be one of our longest days on the road. We drove back through the beautiful nature reserve and turned onto the Great North Road once again, preparing ourselves for the roads and traffic that lay ahead. The section towards the Zambia and Tanzania border is probably the worst stretch of road I have ever traveled on. The horrible thought that we must come back on the same road enters my mind. Perhaps we can find an alternative route for the way back?
On the Zambian side, the primary mode of transport is Chinese motorbikes, which are used to transport just about anything you can think of.
I obtained the contact number of a customs agent for the Tunduma border post from the 4×4 community forum, recommended by other overlanders. We reached out to him a couple of hours before arriving at the border, and he assured us that he would be there to assist.
As we arrived in the hustle and bustle of Nakonde, the town just before the border post, we made a quick stop to buy some fresh bread. Then, we proceeded to enter the border post. Driving in, just as he had mentioned, we spotted a man waving at us with a huge smile on his face. Could this be Emmanuel? Fortunately, I doubted he could miss us, considering we were the only two kitted-out overland vehicles and the only foreigners around.
We negotiated and agreed on a price, and he directed us to a parking spot. Let’s do this.
I wonder if the Landy is pulling the tractor, or if the tractor is pushing the Landy?
We handed over our TIP (Temporary Import Permits) from Zambia to the official. Before giving them up, we took pictures, just in case! We proceeded to the first checkpoint and were then directed to Port Health upstairs. This was a bit odd because Tanzania is a country that never really recognized COVID and lockdown restrictions, and most countries no longer require vaccination certificates or rapid tests.
At the Port Health office, they asked for vaccination certificates or COVID tests and offered to conduct a rapid test at an astronomical cost. They also wanted to charge us $50 to sanitize our vehicles. What a joke! Buses, trucks, taxis, and bikes passed through with no testing or vehicle sanitization. We soon realized that this was only for foreigners, a dodgy money-making scheme concocted by some corrupt border officials.
I asked the official to show us the government gazette indicating that passenger vehicles must be sanitized, and I also asked Emmanuel, who had returned from passport control, to assist us. They showed me a gazette outlining standard procedures for arriving by plane or boat, where they spray aerosol cans in the cabin before landing, but there was nothing about passenger vehicles. We refused to pay based on this, and after Emmanuel also spoke to them, they became so embarrassed for trying to con us that they agreed to sanitize our vehicles free of charge.
After the ridiculous sanitation process, where they took wet wipes with sanitizer and wiped our door handles and steering wheels, we proceeded to the next step. Emmanuel handled everything for us, and after our passports were stamped, they wanted to inspect our vehicles. The official asked us to take all our suitcases to be x-rayed, and upon opening our canopies, he quickly realized it was easier said than done. Emmanuel talked to him, and he agreed that we didn’t have to do it.
We continued to the permits and payment area, and Emmanuel queued and managed all of that while we waited outside the building. He came back every now and then, giving us hope by saying, ‘Almost done.’ Three hours later, at 14:30, we were finally cleared to go. African borders are not for the faint-hearted! Emmanuel showed the permits and documents to the border officials and instructed us to drive through and wait at the first garage to settle his payment. It cost us about $80 per vehicle, including Emmanuel’s fees.
As we drove through the gate, it was mind-blowing how different it looked and felt on this side compared to 100 meters back on the Zambian side. Tuk-tuks, bicycles, and bikes were everywhere. We met up with Emmanuel, settled with him, and continued on our journey.
We were amazed at the differences between the two countries. The houses all had sharply pitched corrugated roofs, and there were no flat roofs to be seen anywhere. We continued driving towards Mbeya and once again encountered our biggest nemesis: traffic. We passed some very slow-moving trucks on a mountain pass. Although it was on a solid white line, there was no oncoming traffic, and there were no cops around (or so we thought). Everyone else on the road was doing the same thing.
Half an hour later, as we were driving into the next town, we spotted a neatly dressed Police/Traffic officer in an all-white uniform waving his hand and signaling us to pull over. He politely greeted us and explained that he had stopped us because we had overtaken a truck on a solid line. No way! How was that possible? I asked him for proof, and he took out his phone and showed me a video that someone had obviously recorded on their cell phone from another truck and sent it to him via WhatsApp. Really?
He provided us with the fine amount for our infringement, and I asked him if we could pay by card (he had a card machine hanging around his neck). He insisted on cash only. I explained that we had just arrived in Tanzania and hadn’t exchanged any money yet, and we had no cash. To our surprise, he let us go with a warning. What a day! Luckily, we dodged that bullet that we certainly did not expect at all.
After a long day, we arrived at Utengule Coffee Lodge at 16:30. The lodge is perched on a hill overlooking the escarpment, and the campsite is located on the helipad (a flat area below the restaurant).
What a delightful place with so much character! We promptly set up camp, and we all reached a consensus that after such a long day, we deserved a meal in their restaurant. We savored a delightful meal while watching the sun set.
Day 8: Utengule Coffee Lodge (Mbeya) to Old Farm House (Kisolanza), near Iringa (300Km)
We woke up a bit later that morning after the long day we had the previous day. We packed up and, following a hearty breakfast in the restaurant (with plenty of fresh coffee produced at the farm), we bid farewell to Utengule. While we would have liked to stay another day, we were also eager to leave civilization behind and head to our first national park.
Before hitting the road, the Barista gave Ewert Jnr a chance to use his machine, and he treated us to one final cappuccino.
It took us nearly two hours to navigate through Mbeya. What a bustling place! You really have to stay focused to avoid the tuk-tuks and all the other traffic.
We head for Kisolanza where we will overnight at Old Farmhouse.
We arrived at the Old Farm House, set up camp, and took a stroll to explore the restaurant nestled within the ruins of an old farmhouse.
We had initially planned to dine in the restaurant but opted for a late afternoon snack board and a braai instead.
Day 9: Old Farm House to Ruaha National Park (121Km)
Tanzanian National Parks operate on a 24-hour system. This means that if you enter the park at 9 am in the morning, you have to exit on the same day before 9 am otherwise, you will be charged for a full day again. We left the old farmhouse at 8 am so that we could enter Ruaha at midday, giving us two full days in the park. Just before we turned off to Ruaha, we stopped at a small village by the side of the road to stock up on some cold drinks and fresh produce.
Melody and I crossed the road for shopping, and I also looked for some charcoal. During our exploration, we came across an elderly lady making something similar to “Indian Roti” using a traditional stone plate with charcoal. We asked her what it was called, and she said, “Chapati.” Well, when in Rome, we decided to order a few to try later during a lunch stop. As we turned off towards Ruaha, we came across another village. I managed to find a small quantity of charcoal, as the bags they were selling on the side of the road seemed like they would last for months
The drive to Ruaha is spectacular, and it’s so nice to be on a gravel road. We stop to deflate our tires to 1.8 bar. Along the way, we come across a beautiful Catholic church in the middle of nowhere.
We reached the entrance gate at 11:20 and proceeded to reception for check-in. Tanzania Parks has an online booking system, and I managed to pre-book and pay for all our campsites and park fees a few months in advance. The only thing I couldn’t pay was our vehicle fees. The lady at reception retrieved our booking from the system but informed us that the vehicle fees had not yet been paid. She then inspected our vehicles to determine their weight. The moment of truth arrived: were we going to have to pay the astronomical $150 per day per vehicle for foreign-registered vehicles weighing above 2001 kg, or would it be the $40 fee? Unfortunately, there was no such luck, and we were charged the higher rate of $150. Our vehicles are now registered in the system, so we will be paying this rate in all the parks. It’s a bitter pill to swallow, but it is what it is. We drove into the park and stopped again to deflate our tires because the corrugations on the road were really bad (1.5 bar). We crossed a bridge with some hippos and crocs below and continued our drive into the park.
On our way into Ruaha, we couldn’t find any firewood. The ranger at the gate mentioned that we could find some at the Park Headquarters. I asked the ranger there if we could perhaps purchase some wood, but he explained that they do not sell firewood in the park, and we were supposed to bring in our firewood. However, he offered to help us by taking some wood to our campsite. What a nice gesture. We then took a drive to check out the different public campsites since there were no other people booked for camping in Ruaha. After considering our options, we decided to stay at our originally booked campsite overlooking the Ruaha River. For lunch, we made some wraps using the chapati we had purchased in the morning. Wow! Chapati is amazing.
After lunch, Cristel quickly rinsed some of our laundry that we had ‘washed’ in our Scrubba bags on the way here. The Scrubba bag is by far the best 4×4 washing machine! We hung the clothes inside the enclosed dining area at our campsite, which is probably intended for tourists from abroad who are afraid to have dinner in the open.
We decided to embark on a late afternoon game drive. Ruaha is very dry, hot, and humid during this time of the year. We found that most of the wildlife were scattered along the ‘River of Life,’ where there was abundant green vegetation and some patches of water.
We were fortunate enough to spot a lioness, all by herself. We followed her as she crossed the road and then disappeared into the bush.
While on our game drive, we noticed a road leading up a koppie/mountain. This road appeared to lead to a cell phone tower, and Anton, who loves exploring less-traveled roads, decided to investigate. We decided that he should go and check it out first, then let us know if the road was passable before we attempted it. We didn’t want both of our vehicles getting into a predicament. The adventure had only just begun!
When they were about halfway up, Anton called us on the radio and informed us that the road was very steep and narrow, with no space to turn around. He strongly advised against following and attempting it. We then lost radio contact with them, and we started to get really worried. About an hour later, they managed to find a spot to turn around. Shortly after that, they called us on the radio to let us know that they were safe and on their way back down safely.
When they returned, we decided to head back to the campsite as a major storm was brewing from all directions. We reached the campsite and only experienced a few drops of rain, allowing us to enjoy the beautiful sunset while setting up camp.
While we sat around the campfire, we received a visitor—an African Genet—curious to see what it could find for food.
Day 10: Ruaha National Park
We woke up and decided to make breakfast somewhere along the river, enjoying some good sightings along the riverbed. After breakfast, we continued with our game drive. We stopped at a viewpoint along the river and witnessed a warthog running away from a lioness that was right under our noses. She crossed the riverbed and disappeared. Could this be the same lion that we saw yesterday? I grabbed the binoculars, scanned the river, and noticed that there were more lions and cubs resting on the other side under a tree.
We turned around, retraced our path, and crossed over the riverbed in search of them, hoping to find a road that would offer us a better view. After going back and forth, we eventually located some tracks that hadn’t been used in a long time and decided to give them a try. Bingo!
We managed to reach them and observed from a distance as they left the tree and moved into a donga to get away from these visitors who had come all the way from Gauteng to see them.
What an amazing day in Ruaha, with its magical baobabs. Just as we arrived at our campsite, a tour operator pulled in with a Land Cruiser packed with people and camping gear. Hopefully, they won’t be too loud and spoil our night. We got our fire started, and shortly after their arrival, they left for dinner at the headquarters’ dining hall. We spent the night around the fire, enjoying a lekker braai. They only returned later and went straight to bed.
We couldn’t help but think and talk about how fortunate we are to live in Africa with our heritage and culture. People pay huge amounts of money to come here and often miss out on experiencing sitting next to a fire with meat on a braai, in the middle of the wilderness. It’s truly priceless. The bitter pill of the $150 vehicle fee is soon forgotten.
Day 11: Ruaha to Tan Swiss Lodge and Campsite (Mikumi) – 311km (and 7hours 30min)
We decided to rise early and take a drive along the Ruaha River to make the most of this beautiful park before we had to depart at about 12 p.m.
We were amazed at the many animals with newborns we had seen in Ruaha, but we were also a little disappointed as we had only seen one elephant and her calf on the first day. We discussed and speculated that this might be due to the dry conditions, and the elephants were probably higher up in the park where there was more water. We drove towards the exit road, and Anton spotted a family of bat-eared foxes.
Heading for the exit road at the headquarters, just before we turned, we spotted some elephants. Ruaha did not disappoint.
We stopped at the first village after leaving the park and decided to see if we could find more of that amazing “chapati” we bought on the way to Ruaha. Cristel and Melody inquired around the village, and they were directed to a place where they found a lady busy making fresh ones. We also tried some really good fried cassava, known as “pili pili mogo,” made in peanut oil. We stopped for lunch and decided to spread peanut butter and syrup on the fresh and steaming hot chapati — absolutely delicious!
We reached Iringa, which is set on a picturesque mountain. Iringa is known for its fresh produce and dairy products. We refuelled with diesel and purchased some delicious drinking yoghurt. The drive took us through the town and down a mountain pass. Overlanding is not just about the scenery and the adventure but also about experiencing local cuisine, people, and culture. We thought that Zambia had pretty decent fresh fruit and vegetables, but Tanzania is probably the best out of all the African countries we have ever seen. Along the way, we loved observing how people and goods were transported; it was quite entertaining.
On our way to Tan Swiss, we drove through a valley with thousands of baobabs and a river below. This was one of the most beautiful scenic roads of the trip so far, and I had never seen so many baobab trees in one place. We arrived at Tan Swiss Lodge, had a drink in the restaurant, and met a South African couple who were staying in Iringa and spending the weekend at the lodge. We spent the afternoon by the pool. We had dinner in the restaurant and had to endure the loud disco music from the property next door, but luckily, it stopped at around 10 p.m.
Day 12: Tan Swiss Lodge (Mikumi) to Dar Es Salaam 310km (5 hours)
We leave Tan Swiss campsite excited. We are going to spend the next few days in luxury. We have been on the road for almost two weeks and the break from camping is at the perfect time. When we initially planned our route it just about worked out that we will be in Zanzibar during both of our and Anton and Melody’s wedding anniversaries which we celebrate on the 13 and 14 of December. Just on the other side of Tan Swiss Lodge lies Mikumi National Park. The main road runs right through the park and we see so many animals. There are signs with amounts in US$ payable if you accidentally hit and kill an animal. These are still reasonably priced compared to the sign with some of the big game and cats on it.
We find a deserted fuel station and stop for brunch just before we reach Morogoro.
On our way to Dar, we encounter two motorcycle riders transporting three huge bags of charcoal each. I attempt to film them with my GoPro. It’s quite amusing when they stand up and look back over the charcoal to see if it’s safe to pass. I follow them when they eventually pass the truck, and we have a very close call with oncoming traffic because I didn’t anticipate that they would pass the truck so slowly.
You can transport just about anything on a Chinese motorcycle in Tanzania. We arrive in Dar Es Salaam at about 2 pm. Fortunately, it’s a Sunday, and there’s no serious traffic. Adrian Chapman, a friend and customer who does a lot of work in Tanzania, was incredibly helpful in organizing our Tanzanian shillings and SIM cards before we left South Africa. He also introduced me to Alex, whom I met at Nampo the previous year. Alex is an expatriate who lives just two blocks away from the Slipway Hotel. We safely leave our bakkies at his house, with fridges plugged in and powered up, while we spend three days relaxing in Zanzibar.
After checking into the hotel, we head down to the restaurant located on the promenade. We chat about the highlights of our journey as we watch the sun set over the water. What a wonderful atmosphere.
Days 13, 14 and 15: Dar to Zanzibar and Stonetown
We rise early for breakfast at 6 am. We’ve arranged for a minibus taxi from the hotel to take us to the airport, feeling the excitement of Island fever in the air.
Anton jokingly asks the taxi driver if he can drive us to the airport, and surprisingly, he agrees. Only in Africa! We gathered our luggage and entered the airport terminal, only to discover that we were dropped at the wrong terminal. We attempted to call our minibus driver, but he didn’t answer. Eventually, we have to take another taxi at a cost of $10 to the main terminal. We board our plane and take a short 15-minute flight to the island of Zanzibar. At the airport, we find the tour operator that Adrian recommended waiting for us, and we embark on a long drive up north to Michamvi and Baladin Beach Hotel, our oasis for the next three days.
Our days are spent sleeping in, indulging in hearty meals, and enjoying plenty of time in and around the pool.
We have lunch at the famous The Rock restaurant, which is a short walk from our hotel. We decide to go on a sundowner dhow cruise that takes us to a mangrove forest and a beach bar and restaurant.
Our time at Baladin comes at the perfect moment during our journey. We leave feeling rejuvenated, spoiled by the luxury, and ready for the next leg of our adventure. Checking out, we make the drive back to the southern side of the island.
We leave our luggage with our minibus driver, and he drops us off in Stone Town. We spent the day walking around, shopping, visiting the spice market, and the Zanzibar coffee shop, which is part of Utengule coffee farm, where we stayed earlier during our journey.
We fly back to Dar and have dinner at a Thai restaurant on the promenade. As we watch the sun set in the distance, we reflect on the amazing time we had on the island. Tomorrow, we leave Dar and embark on the next leg of our journey.
Day 17: Dar es Salaam to Irente Farm Campsite | 346 km (6 hours 30 min)
We rise early and enjoy breakfast at the restaurant. Anton, Ewert Jnr, and I take a Tuc Tuc ride to retrieve our bakkies from Alex’s house, while Cristel and Melody handle checkout and collect our laundered clothes from the hotel.
Following Adrian’s recommendation, we stop by the “Butcher Shop” owned by a friendly South African, stocking up on meat, “beskuit,” and “biltong.” While there, Anton accidentally leaves the biltong behind, but the owner kindly gifts it to us. He informs us about a diesel shortage and directs us to a nearby garage. However, at the fuel station, we encounter a well-dressed attendant who informs us they only accept cash. They allow us to leave to withdraw money from an ATM at Shoppers grocery store. After stocking up on essentials, we return to the garage, settle the bill, and continue our journey.
Navigating through the traffic and diverse suburbs of Dar es Salaam, we realize the expanse of this bustling city, covering about 1593 square km.
Driving along the coastal road toward Bagamoyo, we long for more time to explore the exquisite beach resorts.
In the late afternoon, we reach the turnoff to Mombo village at the mountain’s base and begin the ascent to Irente biodiversity reserve. The scenic 40 km drive up the mountain takes approximately an hour.
En route, we sample some jackfruit from a local fruit stall and procure charcoal from a helpful local, marveling at his effort to retrieve it from the steep descent. We compensate him generously for his service and continue our journey. However, a bolt in Anton’s tire prompts a brief stop, where we temporarily inflate it as darkness falls.
Arriving at Irente in the dusk, we set up camp with the aid of our Lightforce work lights, enjoying a barbecue dinner despite the persistent loud music from the village below, which hinders our sleep throughout the night.
Day 18: Irente Farm to Arusha Masenari Snake Park | 350 km (5 hours 30 min)
We rise from bed and are immediately struck by the breathtaking beauty of the landscape. The lady at the reception explains that the persistent music during the night is due to their neighbors hosting a wedding. Anton’s tire is now completely flat, and we swiftly remove the bolt and install a plug. With everything fixed and ready to go, we eagerly anticipate the day’s journey as we plan to pass by Mount Kilimanjaro. Hoping for clear weather and unobstructed views, we descend the picturesque 40-kilometer road and make our way to Arusha. Along the way, we discuss Irente and its enchanting allure, despite our unpleasant encounter with the music. The area offers a plethora of activities, including hiking trails and 4×4 routes through the mountains, compelling us to consider returning should we ever pass this way again.
We stop for a quick Boerewors lunch stop.
As we drew closer to Arusha and Kili, our hopes and dreams of catching a glimpse of the mountain were gradually shattered. Rain begins to fall, and thick clouds engulf the entire mountain. We couldn’t help but feel disappointed, yet we realised it provided us with another reason to revisit this wonderful country.
Passing through Arusha, we stop at Shoppers to stock up before our 10-day adventure in the bush. Cristel purchases a pack of chocolate brownie mix for Melody’s birthday celebration in Tarangire National Park.
Driving through Arusha, memories of Maun in Bots come flooding back, with numerous game viewers and tour operators preparing to guide visitors to Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro, and the Serengeti, among other destinations.
Upon arriving at Masenari Snake Park, we set up camp on the Rooigrond. Contrary to the green grass in the web pictures, “Ma” (the owner) informs us that the current dry conditions have yet to foster the vibrant greenery seen in the images. Originally from Petermaritzburg, the owners, a South African couple, established the Snake Park 20 years ago. Unfortunately, her husband passed away after contracting COVID.
Day 19: Arusha to Tarangire National Park, 89 km (1 hour 30 min)
We had a restless sleep due to the nearby village’s weekend party vibes heard through the night. Visiting the snake park, we stumble upon a bar with character where we proudly add our Rhino 4×4 sticker. We stopped at the workshop to fill our water tanks and discovered a leak in my stainless steel tank. Deciding to address it later, we proceed to fill Anton’s tank before visiting the Masai cultural village near Masenari as we head for the bush.
En route to Tarangire, we pass through the Masai cultural land, which is not only dry due to the drought but also overgrazed by their cattle. The closer we get, the greener the surroundings become. At the Tarangire signpost, we stop at a village to inquire about firewood. However, the seller’s exorbitant prices prompt us to rely on our remaining charcoal, just in case we can’t find wood inside the park.
Entering Tarangire at midday, we pay the substantial foreign vehicle entrance fees and proceed to our campsite. Initially, the park appears dry, but as we turn toward our site, we discover puddles of water from recent rains, transforming the landscape into a lush green African bush. After checking in at our campsite, we embark on a late afternoon game drive, realising why it’s called the mini Serengeti. Procuring firewood from a ranger near our site, we ponder where the wood was found, as collecting wood within the park is prohibited.
Setting up camp, we light a fire, only to be surprised by an unexpected rain shower. Our awnings, meant for shade, quickly become our shelter from the rain.
Day 20: Tarangire National Park
We rise early to embark on an adventure and celebrate Melody’s birthday. Planning a special brunch with bacon, eggs, sausages, and flapjacks topped with butter and syrup, we aim to stop at one of the designated campsites. Driving along the river route, visiting the main lookout and picnic spot, we decide to explore the special campsite marked on T4A. Arriving at the campsite, we discover a luxurious tented safari camp in operation. Approaching a friendly man near the dry riverbed, we request to use the shade of a large tree to prepare breakfast. He cheerfully agrees, even inviting us to use the lodge’s dining hall, making Melody’s birthday celebration truly memorable.
The remainder of the day is spent exploring the park, observing a tranquil herd of wildebeest and zebras passing by our campsite in the valley below.
In the evening, we indulge in chocolate brownies baked in our bread oven, a delightful treat.
The next morning, we rise early to maximize the remaining half day in Tarangire. Chatting with a ranger, we inquire about sightings of lions. He directs us towards Hondo Hondo and Silale Swamp, promising sightings in the area. Checking our GPS and estimating our timing, we ensure we can exit the park without incurring extra charges. The landscape transforms as we venture into a different section of the park, revealing vast plains teeming with wildlife. Along the way to the Silale swamp picnic spot, we find lions fast asleep in a tree, with zebras grazing below. Spotting more lions on a small island just before the turnoff to the picnic site, we revel in this extraordinary sighting. Savoring a quick breakfast and coffee, we reflect on the beauty of Tarangire, an unforgettable park definitely worth a visit.