Day 17: Dar es Salaam to Irente Farm Campsite | 346 km (6 hours 30 min)

We rise early and enjoy breakfast at the restaurant. Anton, Ewert Jnr, and I take a Tuc Tuc ride to retrieve our bakkies from Alex’s house, while Cristel and Melody handle checkout and collect our laundered clothes from the hotel.

Following Adrian’s recommendation, we stop by the “Butcher Shop” owned by a friendly South African, stocking up on meat, “beskuit,” and “biltong.” While there, Anton accidentally leaves the biltong behind, but the owner kindly gifts it to us. He informs us about a diesel shortage and directs us to a nearby garage. However, at the fuel station, we encounter a well-dressed attendant who informs us they only accept cash. They allow us to leave to withdraw money from an ATM at Shoppers grocery store. After stocking up on essentials, we return to the garage, settle the bill, and continue our journey.

Navigating through the traffic and diverse suburbs of Dar es Salaam, we realize the expanse of this bustling city, covering about 1593 square km.

Driving along the coastal road toward Bagamoyo, we long for more time to explore the exquisite beach resorts.

In the late afternoon, we reach the turnoff to Mombo village at the mountain’s base and begin the ascent to Irente biodiversity reserve. The scenic 40 km drive up the mountain takes approximately an hour.

En route, we sample some jackfruit from a local fruit stall and procure charcoal from a helpful local, marveling at his effort to retrieve it from the steep descent. We compensate him generously for his service and continue our journey. However, a bolt in Anton’s tire prompts a brief stop, where we temporarily inflate it as darkness falls.

Arriving at Irente in the dusk, we set up camp with the aid of our Lightforce work lights, enjoying a barbecue dinner despite the persistent loud music from the village below, which hinders our sleep throughout the night.

Day 18: Irente Farm to Arusha Masenari Snake Park | 350 km (5 hours 30 min)

We rise from bed and are immediately struck by the breathtaking beauty of the landscape. The lady at the reception explains that the persistent music during the night is due to their neighbors hosting a wedding. Anton’s tire is now completely flat, and we swiftly remove the bolt and install a plug. With everything fixed and ready to go, we eagerly anticipate the day’s journey as we plan to pass by Mount Kilimanjaro. Hoping for clear weather and unobstructed views, we descend the picturesque 40-kilometer road and make our way to Arusha. Along the way, we discuss Irente and its enchanting allure, despite our unpleasant encounter with the music. The area offers a plethora of activities, including hiking trails and 4×4 routes through the mountains, compelling us to consider returning should we ever pass this way again.

We stop for a quick Boerewors lunch stop.

As we drew closer to Arusha and Kili, our hopes and dreams of catching a glimpse of the mountain were gradually shattered. Rain begins to fall, and thick clouds engulf the entire mountain. We couldn’t help but feel disappointed, yet we realised it provided us with another reason to revisit this wonderful country.

Passing through Arusha, we stop at Shoppers to stock up before our 10-day adventure in the bush. Cristel purchases a pack of chocolate brownie mix for Melody’s birthday celebration in Tarangire National Park.

Driving through Arusha, memories of Maun in Bots come flooding back, with numerous game viewers and tour operators preparing to guide visitors to Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro, and the Serengeti, among other destinations.

Upon arriving at Masenari Snake Park, we set up camp on the Rooigrond. Contrary to the green grass in the web pictures, “Ma” (the owner) informs us that the current dry conditions have yet to foster the vibrant greenery seen in the images. Originally from Petermaritzburg, the owners, a South African couple, established the Snake Park 20 years ago. Unfortunately, her husband passed away after contracting COVID.

Day 19: Arusha to Tarangire National Park, 89 km (1 hour 30 min)

We had a restless sleep due to the nearby village’s weekend party vibes heard through the night. Visiting the snake park, we stumble upon a bar with character where we proudly add our Rhino 4×4 sticker. We stopped at the workshop to fill our water tanks and discovered a leak in my stainless steel tank. Deciding to address it later, we proceed to fill Anton’s tank before visiting the Masai cultural village near Masenari as we head for the bush.

En route to Tarangire, we pass through the Masai cultural land, which is not only dry due to the drought but also overgrazed by their cattle. The closer we get, the greener the surroundings become. At the Tarangire signpost, we stop at a village to inquire about firewood. However, the seller’s exorbitant prices prompt us to rely on our remaining charcoal, just in case we can’t find wood inside the park.

Entering Tarangire at midday, we pay the substantial foreign vehicle entrance fees and proceed to our campsite. Initially, the park appears dry, but as we turn toward our site, we discover puddles of water from recent rains, transforming the landscape into a lush green African bush. After checking in at our campsite, we embark on a late afternoon game drive, realising why it’s called the mini Serengeti. Procuring firewood from a ranger near our site, we ponder where the wood was found, as collecting wood within the park is prohibited.

Setting up camp, we light a fire, only to be surprised by an unexpected rain shower. Our awnings, meant for shade, quickly become our shelter from the rain.

Day 20: Tarangire National Park

We rise early to embark on an adventure and celebrate Melody’s birthday. Planning a special brunch with bacon, eggs, sausages, and flapjacks topped with butter and syrup, we aim to stop at one of the designated campsites. Driving along the river route, visiting the main lookout and picnic spot, we decide to explore the special campsite marked on T4A. Arriving at the campsite, we discover a luxurious tented safari camp in operation. Approaching a friendly man near the dry riverbed, we request to use the shade of a large tree to prepare breakfast. He cheerfully agrees, even inviting us to use the lodge’s dining hall, making Melody’s birthday celebration truly memorable.

The remainder of the day is spent exploring the park, observing a tranquil herd of wildebeest and zebras passing by our campsite in the valley below.

In the evening, we indulge in chocolate brownies baked in our bread oven, a delightful treat.

The next morning, we rise early to maximize the remaining half day in Tarangire. Chatting with a ranger, we inquire about sightings of lions. He directs us towards Hondo Hondo and Silale Swamp, promising sightings in the area. Checking our GPS and estimating our timing, we ensure we can exit the park without incurring extra charges. The landscape transforms as we venture into a different section of the park, revealing vast plains teeming with wildlife. Along the way to the Silale swamp picnic spot, we find lions fast asleep in a tree, with zebras grazing below. Spotting more lions on a small island just before the turnoff to the picnic site, we revel in this extraordinary sighting. Savoring a quick breakfast and coffee, we reflect on the beauty of Tarangire, an unforgettable park definitely worth a visit.