The Spirit Of Adventure

There is something special about adventure travel off the beaten track in Africa. It’s an experience that can’t be explained, but only experienced. That’s why we do what we do. It all started with our first overland trip to Namibia’s southern and central parts about 20 years ago. Cristel and I had just gotten married in December 2003, and the following April, we set off on a journey that would change our lives in many ways. I always say that the problem with overlanding is that once you’ve been bitten by the bug, there’s no going back. You just want more.

Our first overland vehicle was a Toyota Hilux single cab 2.7L petrol 4×4. I designed, built, and installed most of the modifications and accessories myself. Back then, I was an electrician by trade and had two main reasons for doing this. First, I’m technically minded and I enjoy working with my hands. Second, we didn’t have the financial means to just drive into a 4×4 accessories workshop and get the Hilux kitted out with everything including the kitchen sink.

This experience taught us that you don’t need all the bells and whistles to go on your first overland adventure. You just need a good vehicle, a sense of adventure, and a willingness to get your hands dirty. Over the years, we’ve been on many more overland trips, and we’ve seen some amazing things. We’ve met incredible people, experienced different cultures, and learned a lot about ourselves.

One of the main directional changes in our life was when God opened the door to establish Rhino 4×4 into the South African market 10 years ago when we started Rhino 4×4 Africa in 2013. Many overland trips later, 30 years globally and 10 years in Africa, Rhino 4×4 is driven by the passion for overlanding and adventure and the experience that we have gained through many overland trips in the last 20 years. We have travelled to the following overland destinations and managed to explore and experience these wonderful places and the people of Botswana, Mozambique, Angola, Namibia, and Zimbabwe. It was time to explore more of this amazing continent we get to call home.

I have been dreaming of going to the Serengeti for many years. It has always been one of my bucket list trips and a top overland destination that many only dream about. The overland trip that when you think about it, you get butterflies in your stomach. Our initial plan was to go in December 2020, but our hopes and dreams were shattered when the COVID-19 pandemic hit the world.

We decided to keep on researching, planning, and saving with the hope that as soon as things change, we can get excited again and one day get to experience Tanzania, the Ngorongoro Crater, and the Serengeti.

That time is finally here! I would like to take you on our Tanzania overland adventure. But before we start, we need to get our final planning and preparation done.

Route Planning

After many Saturday morning meetings followed by a good South African braai, we finally decided on our route to Tanzania. We wanted to spend as much time in Tanzania as possible, so we opted to drive the most direct route and not spend time in any countries or places on the way that we have visited before or that we could easily visit from South Africa in the future.

We started by doing research on the internet, the 4×4 community forum, and trip reports and blogs by other overlanders. We also talked to some tour operators that we know and some customers who have done the Serengeti in the past.

We started by making a list of places that all the members of our group wanted to visit to see what would be feasible. This gave us a few different route options.

With our research complete, we soon realized that Tanzania is a country that has so much more to offer than just the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. We decided to add a visit to Kasanka National Park and the Bat Migration, which will be taking place while we are travelling through Zambia on our way to Tanzania.

Things are now beginning to fall into place, and we are super excited!

Here is a tentative list of the places we were planning to visit (in no particular order):
– Serengeti National Park (6 days)
– Ngorongoro Crater (2 days)
– Lake Victoria
– Lake Tanganyika
– Katavi National Park (2 days)
– Ruaha National Park (2 days)
– Bat Migration in Kasanka National Park, Zambia
– Kapishya Hot Springs, Zambia
– Mount Kilimanjaro
– Tarangire National Park (2 days)
– Zanzibar (3 days)
– Gombe National Park in Kigoma for the chimpanzees (optional)

Now that we have a basic outline of our trip, it’s time to start planning the details. We’ll be using Tracks for Africa and other resources to determine our route and the kilometres we can cover each day. We know that Africa is not like driving from Cape Town to Johannesburg, where you can easily cover 1200 kilometres in a day. Travel times and distances can vary greatly, and sometimes 300 kilometres can take you a full day. We’ll also need to factor in traffic, road conditions, and the condition of our vehicles.

We realize that we will be spending a lot of time in the car, but that is no problem for us. Overlanding is all about the journey, not just the destination. We had to take into consideration our businesses and kids’ schooling, so we only have 42 days for this trip. This will be our longest and furthest trip yet, but we’re excited about the adventure!

Below is the Tracks for Africa Map outline of our planned route (total distance ± 11,000km):

Budget

After finalising our route, we had to plan and see if we would actually be able to do everything we wanted to due to time and money constraints.

All of the countries we planned to visit use US Dollars for international visitors, except for Botswana. This meant that budgeting was a huge factor in our trip. When we started planning, the rand-dollar exchange rate was under R15 to the dollar, but by the time we were ready to finalize our budget, it had shot up to over R18.50 to the dollar.

We also got the Tanzanian National Park Tariffs and soon realized that they had changed their daily park vehicle fees in 2018. The new fees are $150 per day for vehicles that weigh over 2001 kilograms. Unfortunately, my Hilux weighs 2029 kilograms and the Ranger weighs 2058 kilograms. This means that we will have to pay an extra $110 per day just on vehicle fees, which we had not originally budgeted for. This is a significant increase, especially considering that we have planned 14 days in Tanzanian national parks. The total difference for vehicle fees alone is $1540.

In addition to the vehicle fees, we will also have to pay park fees and camping fees. Here is a basic breakdown of the daily fees in the Serengeti:

– Vehicle fees: $150 per day
– Park/Conservation fees per adult: $60 per day
– Park/Conservation fees per child (ages 5-15): $20 per day
– Special campsite fees per adult: $50 per day
– Special campsite fees per child (ages 5-15): $10 per day

So, for a family of four in one vehicle, it will cost us a whopping $430 per day to camp under a tree in the Serengeti. There are no facilities like showers or toilets at these “Special campsites,” but it does mean that we will be totally on our own and private in a scenic and unfenced campsite in the middle of the Serengeti. Hopefully, it will be worth the price tag!

Public shared campsites with toilets and cold showers are a bit cheaper, with fees of $30 for adults and $5 for children.

Some of the other national parks are slightly cheaper with conservation fees and camping fees, but the vehicle fees are always $150 per day. We also realised that the Ngorongoro Crater has an additional $250 crater access fee on top of the $150 vehicle fee. And to top it all off, all these costs are exclusive of the 18% VAT.

One of the biggest budget items is diesel. There’s no way around it, we need to fuel our vehicles to get around Tanzania. We are planning to drive 11,000 kilometres, which at an average of 6-7 kilometres per litre will cost us R45,000 at R25 per litre.

We soon realised that this is not going to be a cheap exercise. We have been saving for five years for this trip, and there is no turning back now. This will also be the last year that we will be able to go before our children outgrow the “5-15 year” age bracket. If we don’t go now, this trip will soon be way beyond what we will be able to afford. This is a once-in-a-lifetime trip that we have been dreaming about for years. It is now or never!

Travel Companions

One of the most important things to consider when planning an overlanding trip is the people you go with. As we have learned over the past 20 years, the people you travel with can make or break a trip.

We have found that people who are friends with you for years and who you easily socialize with during a braai may not always be the best travel companions. When things go wrong on an overlanding trip, you soon realize that some people are not that great to travel with. And things will go wrong! Vehicles will break down, you will get lost, and you will encounter unexpected challenges. You need travel companions who can handle pressure, stick together, and make a plan under these circumstances. You need friends who can think out of the box and who won’t lose their cool, even when things are tough.

We are fortunate to have such friends in Anton and Melody. We met them as clients when they were looking to get their vehicle set up for overlanding. One day, while Anton was at our shop, he mentioned that they were going on an overlanding trip to Angola in December with his broker. I ended up inviting myself on this trip, and the rest is history. We soon became best of friends and overlanding partners.

Anton has a towing business and specialises in difficult recoveries as well as the repatriation of vehicles from neighbouring countries. He is the calmest person under pressure that I know, even in the most stressful situations. We have been on many overlanding trips together since 2016, and we wouldn’t want to do it with anyone else.

We are Ewert and Cristel, our kids Ewert Jr (15) and Miané (13) in the Hilux, with Anton and Melody in the Ranger.

From left to right: Ewert, Cristel, Miané, Melody, Anton, Ewert Jr.

The Vehicles And Accessories

As fate would have it, our vehicles are quite controversial in the 4×4 industry and community. There have been many discussions at braais or around the fire about who’s 4×4 is the best: Toyota or Ford.

I have had the privilege of owning both a Toyota Hilux and a Ford Ranger, and to me, the best 4×4 is the one that you prefer and the one that gets you to your next overland destination.

My current vehicle is a 2021 Toyota Hilux Legend 2.8 4×4 Auto. I previously owned a Ford Ranger 3.2 and the Ford Ranger Raptor 2L. Anton has a 2019 Ford Ranger 3.2 4×4 Super Cab that is solely used for overlanding.

Both of our vehicles have been extensively kitted out by Rhino 4×4 to make our lives as easy and convenient as possible when we are in the bush.

Hilux Legend double cab 2.8 4×4 2021 model

Here are some of the modifications we have made to our Hilux to make it the perfect overlanding vehicle:

Suspension: We have upgraded the suspension with Fox 2.5 DSC suspension, Tough Dog 500Kg heavy-duty Leaf springs, and Tough Dog upper control arms. This gives us a smoother ride and more articulation when off-road.
Exhaust: De Graaf free-flow exhaust system to give us a bit more power and torque.
Snorkel: We have installed a snorkel to allow for cooler and cleaner airflow and to allow our Hilux to wade through deeper water.
Wheels and tires: 17-inch Dirty Life wheels with 285/70/17 BFG All-terrain tires. Good old faithful ………Not great on a wet road but has never let me down.
Bumpers: Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D front and rear bumpers. These bumpers are strong and durable, and they provide protection for our Hilux in the event of a collision, better approach and departure angles, jack and recovery points and the front bumper is winch compatible.
Winch: Rhino 4×4 12000 LBS winch. This winch is powerful enough to get us out of any sticky situation.
Rock sliders: Rhino 4×4 rock sliders. These rock sliders protect our Hilux from damage when off-road and provides Hi-Lift jacking points
Underbody protection: Rhino 4×4 full underbody protection. This protection shields our Hilux from rocks and other debris when off-road.
Roof rack: Trailmax roofrack system. This roofrack provides us with extra storage space for our gear and the mounting of our rooftop tent.
Light bars: Rhino 4×4 HD series 20” combat LED lightbars on the front bumpers of our Hilux, and a Rhino 4×4 HD series 32” combat LED lightbar on the roofracks. These lightbars provide us with excellent visibility when driving at night or in low-light conditions.

Canopy: RSI Evo Smartcanopy with kitchen unit and roof mount table.
Rooftop tents: We have a Quickpitch rooftop tent and an Eezi Awn 1.2m rooftop tent. These tents provide us with comfortable sleeping accommodations when we are camping and allows us to leave our bedding in the tents.
Shower: Quickpitch en Suit Shower cubical mounted to the tent on our Hilux. This shower allows us to quickly freshen up after a long day of exploring.
Awning: Alu Cab 270-degree shadow awning mounted to the tent on our Hilux. This awning provides us with additional shade and shelter for those sunny or rainy days.
Charging system: Redarc 40A DC to DC smart charging system with Optima AGM Battery, various power/USB points and internal lighting. This charging system allows us to charge our devices and run our equipment even when we are off the grid.
Solar panel: 160w solar panel mounted on the tent on our Hilux. This solar panel provides us with a source of renewable energy when we are off grid.
Compressor: ARB 160l compressor with an air tank. This compressor allows us to inflate our tires and use air tools when needed.
Drawer system: DECKED drawer storage system in the back of our Hilux. This storage system provides us with an easy and organized place to store our gear.
Fridge/freezer: 60L National Luna Dual Fridge Freezer on a drop-down fridge slide in the back of our Hilux. This fridge/freezer allows us to keep our food and drinks cold when we are camping.
Fridge: 16L Engel fridge mounted on the back seat of our Hilux. This fridge allows us to keep our drinks cold when we are camping.
Water tank: 70l stainless steel built-in water tank with Quickpitch Gas geyser mounted and plumbed into a Variable Speed water pump on our Hilux. This water tank provides us with fresh water when we are camping.
Fuel tank: 80L long-range fuel tank on our Hilux. This fuel tank allows us to travel further without having to refuel.
Jack: High Lift Jack mounted to the side of the Quickpitch Rooftent on our Hilux. This jack allows us to change a tire or recover our vehicle in sand or mud.
Work lights: 3x Lightforce work lights on wireless remote on our Hilux. These work lights provide us with extra light when we are working on our vehicles or camping in unfenced places.

Ford Ranger 3.2 4×4 Super cab 2019 model

Here are some of the modifications we have made to the Ranger to get it prepared and ready for this trip:

Suspension: We have upgraded the suspension with Tough Dog Suspension with 9-stage adjustable shocks and 300Kg heavy-duty Leaf springs. This gives us a smoother ride and more articulation when off-road.
Exhaust: De Graaf free-flow exhaust system to give us a bit more power and torque.
Snorkel: We have installed a snorkel to provide cooler and cleaner airflow ant to allow our Ranger to wade through deeper water.
Wheels and tires: 17 inch Dick Cepek wheels with 265/70/17 BFG All Terrain tires. These tires provide good traction on a variety of surfaces.

Bumpers: Rhino 4×4 Evolution 3D front bumper. The bumper is strong and durable, and  provides protection to our Ranger in the event of a collision, better approach angle, jack and recovery points and the bumper is winch compatible.

Winch: Rhino 4×4 12500 LBS winch. This winch is powerful enough to get us out of any sticky situation.
Rock sliders: Rhino 4×4 rock sliders. These rock sliders protect our Ranger from damage when off-road and provides Hi lift jacking points.
Underbody protection: Rhino 4×4 full underbody protection. This protection shields our Ranger from rocks and other debris when off-road.
Roof rack: Front Runner Roofrack. This roof rack provides us with extra storage space for our gear.
Spotlights: Rhino 4×4 HD series 80W spots. These LED Spots provide us with excellent visibility when driving at night or in low-light conditions.

Canopy: RSI Smartcanopy with Kitchen unit and roof mount table.
Rooftop tents: Alu Cab Gen 3 rooftop tent and a Quickpitch en Suit Shower cubical mounted on a fold-out arm on the roof rack. This tent provide us with comfortable sleeping when we are camping.
Awning: Alu Cab 270-degree shadow awning mounted to the tent. This awning provides us with additional shade and shelter for those sunny and rainy days.


Charging system: National Luna 40A DC to DC smart charging system with 2x 100AH Discover AGM Battery’s, various power/USB points and internal lighting. This charging system allows us to charge our devices and run our equipment even when we are off the grid.
Solar panel: 2x 100w Solar panels mounted on the tent. This solar panel provides us with a source of renewable energy when we are off grid.
Compressor: ARB 160l compressor with an custom air tank that i made from the existing tow bar. This compressor and air tank allows us to inflate our tires and use air tools when needed.
Drawer system: Big Country Outback Drawer system in the back of our Ranger. This storage system provides us with an easy and organized place to store our gear. We also have a custom made storage rack in the extended cab for our clothing ,duvet’s and pillows and space for our drone and other gear.
Fridge/freezer: 60l National Luna Dual Fridge Freezer on a Alu Cab tilt fridge slide. This fridge/freezer allows us to keep our food and drinks cold when we are camping.

Fridge: 16L Engel fridge mounted between the two front seats of the Ranger. This fridge allows us to keep our drinks cold when we are camping.

Water tanks: 40l stainless built-in Water tank with Quickpitch Gas geyser mounted and plumbed into another 50l water tank connected to a Variable Speed water pump.Fuel tank: 54L long-range fuel tank. This fuel tank allows us to travel further without having to refuel.
Additional fuel tank: 50l additional fuel tank with a filler neck and an electrical pump feeding into the long-range tank. This additional fuel tank allows us to travel even further without having to refuel.
High Lift Jack: High Lift Jack mounted to the roofrack. This jack allows us to change a tire or recover our Ranger.
Maxtrax: Mounted to the roofrack. These Maxtrax allow us to recover in tricky mud or sand.

Lightforce work lights: 3x Lightforce work lights on wireless remote on our Ranger. These work lights provide us with extra light when we are working on our vehicles or camping in unfenced wild areas.

Gas bottles: 2x Gas bottles mounted to the canopy. These gas bottles provide us with fuel for our stove and gas geyser when we are camping.
2000W Pure Sign wave Inverter: We have a 2000W Pure Sign wave Inverter that allows us to run our Lap tops, hair dryers and charge our cameras and other devices when we are off the grid.

Packing List

Every successful trip has a very detailed packing list to ensure that the essentials are going with and are not left behind. Here is the packing list template which we normally use when going on an overlanding adventure. You can download your own copy here.

That’s all the preparation done! With the route properly mapped out, the budget set, the travel companions onboard, and the vehicles equipped, we’re now ready to embark on our Tanzania Serengeti adventure! Join us in our next article for the first leg of our journey to Tanzania.