Day 11: Ruaha to Tan Swiss Lodge and Campsite (Mikumi) – 311km (and 7hours 30min)

We decided to rise early and take a drive along the Ruaha River to make the most of this beautiful park before we had to depart at about 12 p.m.

We were amazed at the many animals with newborns we had seen in Ruaha, but we were also a little disappointed as we had only seen one elephant and her calf on the first day. We discussed and speculated that this might be due to the dry conditions, and the elephants were probably higher up in the park where there was more water. We drove towards the exit road, and Anton spotted a family of bat-eared foxes.

Heading for the exit road at the headquarters, just before we turned, we spotted some elephants. Ruaha did not disappoint.

We stopped at the first village after leaving the park and decided to see if we could find more of that amazing “chapati” we bought on the way to Ruaha. Cristel and Melody inquired around the village, and they were directed to a place where they found a lady busy making fresh ones. We also tried some really good fried cassava, known as “pili pili mogo,” made in peanut oil. We stopped for lunch and decided to spread peanut butter and syrup on the fresh and steaming hot chapati — absolutely delicious!

We reached Iringa, which is set on a picturesque mountain. Iringa is known for its fresh produce and dairy products. We refuelled with diesel and purchased some delicious drinking yoghurt. The drive took us through the town and down a mountain pass. Overlanding is not just about the scenery and the adventure but also about experiencing local cuisine, people, and culture. We thought that Zambia had pretty decent fresh fruit and vegetables, but Tanzania is probably the best out of all the African countries we have ever seen. Along the way, we loved observing how people and goods were transported; it was quite entertaining.

On our way to Tan Swiss, we drove through a valley with thousands of baobabs and a river below. This was one of the most beautiful scenic roads of the trip so far, and I had never seen so many baobab trees in one place. We arrived at Tan Swiss Lodge, had a drink in the restaurant, and met a South African couple who were staying in Iringa and spending the weekend at the lodge. We spent the afternoon by the pool. We had dinner in the restaurant and had to endure the loud disco music from the property next door, but luckily, it stopped at around 10 p.m.

Day 12: Tan Swiss Lodge (Mikumi) to Dar Es Salaam 310km (5 hours)

We leave Tan Swiss campsite excited. We are going to spend the next few days in luxury. We have been on the road for almost two weeks and the break from camping is at the perfect time. When we initially planned our route it just about worked out that we will be in Zanzibar during both of our and Anton and Melody’s wedding anniversaries which we celebrate on the 13 and 14 of December. Just on the other side of Tan Swiss Lodge lies Mikumi National Park. The main road runs right through the park and we see so many animals. There are signs with amounts in US$ payable if you accidentally hit and kill an animal. These are still reasonably priced compared to the sign with some of the big game and cats on it.

We find a deserted fuel station and stop for brunch just before we reach Morogoro.

On our way to Dar, we encounter two motorcycle riders transporting three huge bags of charcoal each. I attempt to film them with my GoPro. It’s quite amusing when they stand up and look back over the charcoal to see if it’s safe to pass. I follow them when they eventually pass the truck, and we have a very close call with oncoming traffic because I didn’t anticipate that they would pass the truck so slowly.

You can transport just about anything on a Chinese motorcycle in Tanzania. We arrive in Dar Es Salaam at about 2 pm. Fortunately, it’s a Sunday, and there’s no serious traffic. Adrian Chapman, a friend and customer who does a lot of work in Tanzania, was incredibly helpful in organizing our Tanzanian shillings and SIM cards before we left South Africa. He also introduced me to Alex, whom I met at Nampo the previous year. Alex is an expatriate who lives just two blocks away from the Slipway Hotel. We safely leave our bakkies at his house, with fridges plugged in and powered up, while we spend three days relaxing in Zanzibar.

After checking into the hotel, we head down to the restaurant located on the promenade. We chat about the highlights of our journey as we watch the sun set over the water. What a wonderful atmosphere.

Days 13, 14 and 15: Dar to Zanzibar and Stonetown

We rise early for breakfast at 6 am. We’ve arranged for a minibus taxi from the hotel to take us to the airport, feeling the excitement of Island fever in the air.

Anton jokingly asks the taxi driver if he can drive us to the airport, and surprisingly, he agrees. Only in Africa! We gathered our luggage and entered the airport terminal, only to discover that we were dropped at the wrong terminal. We attempted to call our minibus driver, but he didn’t answer. Eventually, we have to take another taxi at a cost of $10 to the main terminal. We board our plane and take a short 15-minute flight to the island of Zanzibar. At the airport, we find the tour operator that Adrian recommended waiting for us, and we embark on a long drive up north to Michamvi and Baladin Beach Hotel, our oasis for the next three days.

Our days are spent sleeping in, indulging in hearty meals, and enjoying plenty of time in and around the pool.

We have lunch at the famous The Rock restaurant, which is a short walk from our hotel. We decide to go on a sundowner dhow cruise that takes us to a mangrove forest and a beach bar and restaurant.

Our time at Baladin comes at the perfect moment during our journey. We leave feeling rejuvenated, spoiled by the luxury, and ready for the next leg of our adventure. Checking out, we make the drive back to the southern side of the island.

We leave our luggage with our minibus driver, and he drops us off in Stone Town. We spent the day walking around, shopping, visiting the spice market, and the Zanzibar coffee shop, which is part of Utengule coffee farm, where we stayed earlier during our journey.

We fly back to Dar and have dinner at a Thai restaurant on the promenade. As we watch the sun set in the distance, we reflect on the amazing time we had on the island. Tomorrow, we leave Dar and embark on the next leg of our journey.